300th Post ! Safety Tip: How to Handle Heat. And Happy 4th of July

Today is a hot one. I was going to write about tips for the 4th of July- but I have already done that. Click Here to review that Holiday Tip. Instead, since I just finished reading a newspaper article about a person charged with animal abuse who left a dog in the car causing it to die of heat exposure, I thought I would talk about HEAT.

Air movement, shade, and water are the 3 keys to tolerating a hot day. A day outside may not be as comfortable as one spent in the air conditioning, but if adequate water, shade and air movement are maintained, then it should remain just uncomfortable, but not deadly. Dogs (and people) who are not acclimated to the heat will experience a greater level of discomfort and are more likely to experience heat stress than those who are acclimated to the weather. If you are not acclimated to the heat, then limit your excercise to the morning and evening when the day time temperatures are cooler. If you are going to be spending long days out doors, then it is best to begin the acclimation process by spending time outdoors, but in a rested and relaxed state, not exerting energy. You can gradually build up your periods of exertion mixed with periods of rest- making sure all the while that water is available as needed.

Dogs normally pant to cool their body temperature (they do not sweat), so how will you know when your dog is experiencing excessive heat stress, and not just "being hot". The first step is always observation. Know what is "normal" for your dog (outside). If your dog begins to hyperventilate, it is a sign that they are not able to dissipate enough heat to regulate their body. They should be offered additional water, wet down, and more air flow should be provided. Most of the time this will suffice. If your dog is confused, is weak, or has dry gums, move into an air conditioned area if possible, offer water, and follow the How to cool a Heat Stressed Dog written below. If your dog experiences these symptoms, seek veterinary assistance to confirm that no complication have occurred. The normal temperature for a dog ranges from 100 degrees to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit. If you are going to be traveling a lot with your dog, it might be a good idea to pack a thermometer.

As heat stress progresses towards Heat Stroke, the gums will become pale or gray, vomiting, diarrhea, and eventually seizures may result. Temperatures above 105 degrees Fahrenheit is dangerous and can be life threatening. Most dogs won't experience this sort of distress in a normal environment; however Heat Stroke can occur VERY quickly if your dog is left in a car or other closed environment. NEVER, NEVER, EVER leave your dog in a closed vehicle. Vehicles can reach temperatures of 120 degrees Fahrenheit in a short period of time. If you are traveling with your dog, take a spare set of car keys with you. If you need to make a stop for any reason, leave your car running with the air conditioning on (and since your dog will be in a crate- it won't "drive off" or move the shift lever!!!!!). Lock the car keeping the spare keys in your pocket you you can get back in.

How to Cool a Heat Stressed Dog
1. Apply ice or cool packs to the a) "armpits" b) groin area and c) the neck
2. Increase the air movement by fanning, or blowing - or better yet, move to an air conditioned area such as a car or building.
3. Immerse the dog in a tepid (not really cold) water bath, or pour cool water in the armpits, groin area and over the neck.
4. Seek Veterinary assistance.

Let me repeat: Air movement, shade, and water is all that is really needed to be able to be outside all day - even on hot days like today.

Happy (and safe!) 4th of July!

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Dogs should be crated while riding in the car- a real life story

This is Rory during one of the snow storms this winter. Dr. Amy emailed this message, "I had a really scary experience about a week ago. I was hit head-on by a drunk driver who was driving on the wrong side of a little country road out near where I keep my horse. My car was totaled (the other driver was driving a monster Chevy Suburban), but I was able to walk away with relatively minor bumps and bruises. Rory was with me, but he was safely in his crate in the back. He didn't have a scratch on him. He is definitely the poster child for securing dogs in crates in the backs of vehicles:)

I am so glad to hear that both Amy and Rory were not injured. That sounds like a horrible accident.
I wrote another blog entry about crating dogs while driving explaining why crates are so important for transporting your dog.

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Tip for the Holidays: A safe Thanksgiving meal

Thanksgiving is almost here and as always one of the many things I am thankful for is a life full of dogs. On this National holiday when family and friends come together to share a big meal, I like to give the dogs a special meal too. Their special meal will NOT include the fatty leftovers from the turkey, gravy or a lot of butter! I will be sure to tell my relatives that although they may want to be kind to the dogs and share- today is off limits! When I worked for a Vet I remember dogs coming in after the holidays suffering from acute pancreatitis.

The pancreas aids in the digestion of fats (as well as starches and proteins), but when overly taxed, it can become inflamed and release excessive enzymes causing inflammation and what amounts to the digestion of the organ itself. Signs of pancreatitis include vomiting, diarrhea, and not eating-but if your dog exhibits these signs, a Vet will need to determine if it is pancreatitis. This condition can be very serious and may require hospitalization. The best way to avoid this dangerous side effect of “holiday cheer” is to give your dogs the less fatty items.

I hope I don’t have to mention that the cooked bones of the turkey are a HUGE NO NO!! As I have mentioned in a past post, cooked bones are very dangerous. Poultry bones are some of the most dangerous as they are brittle and splinter easily. They are very likely to perforate the intestines.

As I know that this day will be busy and food will be in the kitchen unattended and the trash can may be full to the brink of plastic wrap, aluminum foil, turkey bones and other hazardous items, the kitchen will be off limits to the dogs. Normally they are in the kitchen while we cook, but not on holidays.

My dogs’ menu will include the turkey neck (RAW), a small amount of cook white meat turkey (no skin) a few slices of sweet potato (cooked as a whole potato then sliced- no butter, no brown sugar added) and a brussel sprout or two. If you feed kibble and want to add some fat free chicken broth for flavor, I am sure they would say thank you.
Happy Thanksgiving.

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Safety Tip: Good Fences Make Good Neighbors

What is the purpose of a fence? It may seem like a silly question, but when you think about it, the answers do vary- so it is not that silly of a question. One of the first questions a breeder may ask of a prospective home is, “do you have a fenced yard?” If the answer is, “Yes” then a follow up question of, “what type of a fence is it?” needs to be asked- why? Because the answer to that question gets at the true nature of the purpose of the fence.

Fences that surround pools for example are there to provide the pool owner with “liability insurance” – to keep children and animals from “accidently falling in”. Some fences are decorative in nature. Some fences are for privacy so that your neighbors can’t see directly into your living space. Some fences are to protect the neighborhood children-outside the fence- from a large dog which is inside the fence. In the case of sheltie breeders, we want fences that will protect the dog-inside the fence- from the large dogs (and children) that are outside the fence. I consider fences to be a protection of my family member- a kind of “dog insurance”.

I am not a fan of Invisible fences. They do not serve to protect the dog within the fenced area from dangers that may come into the yard. I personally know of 5 people whose SHELTIES were KILLED by attacking dogs. Additionally, one dog that I bred and sold to a pet home was attacked by a large dog. This sheltie survived, but did have extensive damage. It happens a lot. I don’t know what it is about shelties, but they seem to wear a sign that says, “bite me”. I wouldn’t be surprised to have many of you leave comments saying things like, “yeah- a (such and such dog) attacked my sheltie while we were at the (park, agility trial, walking in the neighborhood….)”. Home associations might like invisible fences, but I don’t. They do not protect the dogs within their boundaries.

In my opinion, if the purpose of the fence is to enclose a dog, it must be an actual physical barrier. If it is not, then other dogs (or kids) can enter your yard and cause harm to your dog. This physical barrier must also reach the ground. There should not be spaces where a dog could squeeze out. Dogs can squeeze out of very small spaces.

I don’t always require prospective buyers to have fences. I often feel that people who get young puppies can teach the puppies boundaries, but be forewarned, when someone says to me, “I am always with them when they are outside”- just remember that just because you are out with them, it may not be enough to protect them. It does no good to see them get hit by the car. If you get a dog and you don’t have a fenced yard, you have to work doubly hard to help your dog understand boundaries, and this means that yes, they will test those boundaries, just to make sure you mean it. Hopefully, this will happen in your presence, and at a time when no car is coming, or big dog is chasing. If you do have an invisible fence, you should also never let your dog out unsupervised. It is just too dangerous for your dog.

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Safety Tip: Sago Palm Plant Toxic

Thank you Burnt Hills Animal Hospital for putting this alert out.

Sago Palm" or "Cycad"Poisoning Alert-
It has come to our attention that many home improvement stores are selling a houseplant that can cause serious poisoning in pets and children. The plant is called the “Sago Palm” or “Cycad”. It is also referred to as “The Oldest Known Plant”. It is used in outdoor landscaping in Southern States, but can only survive as a houseplant in the North. All of this plant, including the seeds and root ball are toxic. Signs of illness first appear about 12 hours after ingestion and include gastrointestinal sign such as vomiting, diarrhea and lethargy. The toxins in the plant lead to severe liver failure with progressive weakness, jaundice, bruising and bleeding and other signs of liver failure that lead to death. It is estimated that 75-80% of animals ingesting this plant will die in spite of aggressive medical treatment. If you have one of these plants in your home you will want to be sure to keep it away from pets and children, preferably by disposing of it safely in a covered trash can or “rehome” it with someone who does not have pets or young children in the household.

For more information: http://www.snopes.com/critters/crusader/sagopalm.asp

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Safety tip: Dogs should be crated when riding in a car

My friend, Bonnie Frank, had a good reminder about dogs riding in crates on her blog and I thought I would take the opportunity add a second voice to her plea.

I feel very strongly that dogs should always ride in a crate in the car*. None of us ever expect to get into a car accident. My friend Bonnie was reminded of this important safety tip because someone she knew actually had gotten in to an accident and the crate saved the dog.

I have a list of my own stories of accidents and dogs that were saved. Crates serve as “seat belts”- but are far, far better than the strap “seat belts” you can buy in dog catalogs or pet stores. Crates actually protect the dog and should the nature of the accident require that the crate (with dog in it) be moved to the side of the road during rescue efforts, you can rest assure that the dog is contained. Another advantage a crate has over safety belts is that if your dog needs to be transported by a stranger, that person will not fear being bitten by your crated dog, and the dog won’t feel as if this stranger is “attacking them”. The rescue crew will be more comfortable with the dog, and the dog will be less traumatized by an otherwise traumatic event.

Ideally you will secure the crate to the car using some method. I use bungee cords. If you just get into a fender-bender, the crate won’t go flying around in the car.

Those safety straps that are designed as seat belts are not as good because your dog could still experience the same whip lash effect that you might experience from your seat belt. It will save your life, but you might have a broken clavicle too. Common seat belt injuries are broken bones and possible neck injury. Not to mention the fact that once you have unbuckled the dog from the seat belt buckle, you need a leash to hold on to the dog.

People often ask me, “what type of crate should I get?”. If you are only going to get 1 crate, then a molded plastic, #200 vari-kennel (or medium size) is my choice. This kennel has a handle on the top and is easy to move into and out of the car and home. I also think it is the best for car travel. I would not want to think what a wire crate would do in an accident. Broken wire could impale the dog- and that would defeat the purpose of the safety of a crate.

I have both wire crates and molded plastic crates in my home, and the dogs often choose the molded plastic as their “private space”. If you are going to get a crate for the home and one for travel, then just make sure that the travel crate is the molded plastic one.

It is law that children have to ride in car seats, I think dogs should ride in crates for the same reasons.

* I do make one small exception- I will allow a puppy traveling to his new home for the first time to be held. However, if the new “puppy” is older, or an adult- they must ride in a crate.

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4th of July safety tips

We all know what is going to happen this Friday (and maybe Thursday and Saturday too). People are going to celebrate a birthday with lots of explosions and loud noises. Just the sort of thing that terrorizes many pets. Many shelties are noise sensitive as it is, and even those who are not, may find this sort of celebration too much to handle. This holiday is not like any others and should be treated with care.

What NOT to do!
1. Don't bring your dog to a public fireworks display.
While dogs love to do things with their owners, this is one they would generally say "no thank you" to if you were able to ask them. The crowds of people, the noise, the confusion that we find a "celebration" they often find very stressful.

2. Don't leave them outside- even if you have a fenced yard. MANY dogs become so stressed out that they jump a fence, dig under a fence, or just have hours of anxiety while you are gone.

What you SHOULD do!
1. Leave them at Home in a secure Crate. Even if you don't leave a dog in a crate normally while you are away, this is the time to do so. They will be safe, and you will come home and not experience the horror of a missing dog or a wrecked house.

2. Turn on some sort of noise to help even out the explosions that will occur outside. Leaving a fan, air conditioner, a white noise machine, a TV show or music will help.

3. Just for this weekend, put a collar with id tags on the dog. If anything should happen, at least if someone finds the dog they will be able to return them.

4. Follow these tips even if you don't think your dog will be stressed out. Just because he is not afraid of thunder, does not mean he will handle the 4th of July with ease. If you are not home, you might not know how he reacts. Putting on a collar with tags and putting him in a crate could save a lot of heart ache later.

Happy (and SAFE) 4th of July everyone!

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